We arrived at our campsite and were surprised by a solitary stone structure near a natural hot spring. I wanted to jump in, but the cold air kept me out, so I explored the spring instead and waited for dinner. Upis offered stunning views of the snowcapped Ausangate as the sun set.
Dinner included soup, rice, chicken, and potatoes, accompanied by lively Quechuan radio looping a few cheerful songs. It felt playful and authentic. During dinner, Antonio shared the nearby Quyllur Rit’i festival, celebrating Andean culture with dance, food, and tradition.
Ausanagte Trek Day 2
On this day of the Ausangate Hike we woke up in Upis with a beautiful sunrise. The alpenglow of the Andes is pure magic. For breakfast, we had some bread and a delicious quinoa and apple cinnamon porridge. I also stuck to my daily routine of starting the day with two cups of instant coffee, that I would make so thick it looked like tar on my stirring spoon. Antonio told us about our plan for the day, which would take us up and over our first of four passes on the trek. This one would be Pas Arapa Apacheta, at 16,150 ft. The total distance for day two would be a little more than 10 miles, with 3,000 ft of climbing.
However, the first mile of hiking was a bit boggy, and it wasn’t long before Edith dunked one of her feet into the ice cold glacial water we were trying so hard to avoid. Luckily, her feet dried quickly in the dry air. We took a few pictures at the base of Ausangate before beginning our steep climb to the pass. This is also the moment I really started to appreciate Antonio as a guide. His timing was impeccable. One second he would be there giving us the history and geography background of the landscape, then he’d be off ahead giving us plenty of time to ourselves. 
Near to our next goal
Hiking up to Pass Arapa Apacheta was steep but smooth, and we made it up without much of an issue. Having the time to acclimatize in Cusco and on the Salkantay Trek must have really helped, because neither of us were feeling the effect of the thin air above 16,000ft. This was also the closest we had been to the 20,945 ft summit of Ausangate in our 24 hours of adventure. I was really starting to look forward to the next three days, where we would be making a counter clockwise loop around the massif.
We continued on from the pass and before me stood the most beautiful glacial lakes I had ever laid eyes on. They were a deep sapphire blue, surrounded by flickering blades of golden grass, set deep beneath the towering peaks above. It was a humbling experience to be embraced by so much untouched beauty, with only Pachamama to see us. The morning air was taut and calm, leaving the surface of each lake still and reflecting the world around it. Every view you see feels like the most beautiful thing you’ve ever seen, and yet, it continues to be outdone with your very next step. If there is a heaven, it has to look like this.
Motivation is important
The second half of day 2 involved a shorter climb over another pass, which we tackled with energy and enthusiasm. Antonio shared stories of the stunning glacial lakes we would encounter along the way and introduced us to the South American camelid family: llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, and guanacos. Most of the animals in this region are alpacas, while llamas roam lower elevations in the Cusco province, and guanacos are found further south in Argentina.
The most elusive is the vicuña, native to the high Andes along the Ausangate trek. Vicuñas produce the softest and warmest wool, making their scarves worth tens of thousands of dollars. They are reclusive, avoid domestication, and are difficult to spot at their high-altitude habitats. Seeing one is considered a very good omen, so I made it my personal goal on this trek. The anticipation added a sense of excitement and purpose to our journey through the breathtaking Andean landscape.
On our way over the second pass of the day, we saw a few stunning turquoise lakes. Lakes get this color from rock flour. Rock flour is bedrock deposited from a moving and eroding glacier. Once we have crossed over the pass, we made our final descent for the day to our campsite to another gorgeous golden valley. We set up camp and had a nice dinner before falling into a deep sleep from tired legs and satisfied souls and minds.
Ausanagte Trek Day 3
The morning of day three on the Ausangate trek brought the coldest temperatures of our trip. Despite the chill, Edith and I were eager to start, climbing toward Palomani Pass, flanked by glaciers on the southwest side of Ausangate. Day 3 spanned 8 miles with 2,000 feet of ascent to a maximum elevation of 16,800 feet. It was a shorter day, allowing us to savor the breathtaking vistas.
From the campsite, the climb began immediately, revealing our first views of the famed “painted hills,” their vibrant colors dazzling across the landscape. As we neared the pass, snow deepened, and suddenly the sky and ground turned white and gray, silencing the colors we’d admired minutes before. Our horseman led the way, Edith and Antonio’s breath audible behind me. A caracara hawk soared overhead, announcing my arrival at the summit, where I paused, taking in the perfect panorama on both sides.
Lamas & alpacas everywhere
After spending time photographing the pass, Antonio performed a traditional Quechuan ritual, giving thanks to Pachamama for our safe journey. He took three coca leaves from his bag, held them to his chest, and asked us and the porters to do the same. The people of the Andes believe each mountain is a deity, and Antonio spoke their names, blowing over the leaves as a prayer. We followed along, and at the end, he hugged us and sprinkled confetti in a symbolic blessing. Our leaves were placed into a hallowed cairn, sealed with a final prayer, before we continued.
The views from Palomani Pass were breathtaking—painted hills, valleys, snow-capped peaks, living glaciers, and clouds that seemed celestial. The colors were so vivid they overwhelmed the senses. Descending from the pass, we followed alpaca tracks through the valley, surrounded by these gentle creatures grazing, a perfect and serene conclusion to a magical moment.
Great food
After lunch, we began hiking towards our camping spot, and with perfect timing, the clouds began to clear. For this last section of day three, we hiked among the alpaca herds which were more numerous than I could count. The hills sparkled a gold and yellow only found in storybooks with the smells of ice and eternity in the air. After the elegance of Palomani Pass earlier in the day, I was floating on a cloud, drifting in and out of what I thought was real. Sometimes life is just too good to be true. We arrived at our campsite fairly early in the afternoon and relaxed in a beautiful area with perfect views of Ausangate. We knew that day 4 would be our toughest climb of the trek and take us to the highest pass, so we got to bed early and rested up for what we knew lie ahead. Much like the nights before, the afternoon skies filled with steaming bands of cirrus clouds. As the sun disappeared, so did the clouds. In their absence, a cold hung heavy in the air, and the skies were crystal clear.
Ausanagte Trek Day 4 & 5
Day four of the Ausangate Tour started with another sublime morning. The sky was clear, and just starting to fill with wispy clouds. Edith and I made our way to the main tent for a delicious breakfast of crepes and toast with jam. Antonio once again laid out the overview of the day’s hiking, and informed us we would be going over our final high pass, at 16,600ft.
The day would begin much like day 3, with a steep climb, followed by a descent through mountain peaks and alpine glaciers. The climb to the pass was steep, but also short, and after 3.5 miles, we were standing at the top. It was a phenomenal site with cairns placed everywhere like an army of stone soldiers. The wind started to howl in a constant flow of air, like it was forced from a broken main. The cold wind couldn’t dampen our spirits though, we stood there for quite some time enjoying what would be our final high pass.
I walked around to explore a bit, when I noticed a bit of movement about 1000ft above the pass. “Could it be?”, I asked myself. “Have I finally witnessed the storied vicuna?” I pointed them out to Antonio, and he confirmed with excitement, that they were in fact vicuna. The initial section of trail was single track, but quickly turned back into a series of trails, cut from the feet of the alpacas that graze here. I was once again left speechless by the unthinkable beauty of the Willkanuta mountain range of the Andes. Standing in place, I would turn and take in all 360 degrees of its majesty. There are simply no bad views here, and I wanted to remember it all.
Finally on the last part
We took a break halfway into the descent and sat right next to a small lake with grazing alpacas. The trails ran along the sides of the hills here, and I almost started to feel bad for Antonio because of how slowly we were moving. There are moments and places in life that make you fully aware of the delicate and precious nature of our existence. You can never go back in time to change or redo things. On this trek, I wanted to make sure to slow down and open my eyes to truly see where I was, instead of just letting my body move through it. We set up our campsite for the night in the small town of Pacchanta. With only a few miles left on day 4, the trail flowed into a dirt road, and we started to walk by small structures and houses. I felt astonished that people live out here, and at the same time, green with envy. As hard as life at 15,000 ft must be, you can’t ask for a better backdrop to animate the story of your life.
Additionally, on this day we spent the evening walking around the village of Pacchanta, playing with a lively group of puppies who kept begging for food, and standing in amazement at the last four days. The only downside to travel is realizing that you eventually have to go home. This was our final night on the Ausangate trek, and I just wasn’t ready for things to end.
We woke up early and rode back to Cusco in our bus.
You may also be interested in:
- How Long Take the Ausangate Hike?
- What is the Inca Trail?
- What Do I Need to Hike the Inca Trail?
- Best Tours in Cusco
- Hiking Gear for Rent
Much like our first trek, we met at the Vidal Expeditions office the night before we left to hear of our itinerary. We also met our guide, Antonio. Edith and I would be the only people coming along for this one. We were very excited about that. Antonio and a driver picked us up from our hotel early on day one of our trek to drive us from Cusco to the small village of Tinqui. The drive was about 3 hours long, I kept myself occupied reading Ken Follett’s World Without End while Edith slept. We arrived at a small market and stopped out front.
The town of Tinque looked to have only a few hundred inhabitants, the buildings were of adobe construction with partially paved roads. The people were beautiful, with sun kissed skin weathered like golden raisins, and adorned with bright home woven alpaca garments. We arrived in the morning bustle at about 7 am, when people were buying food and goods for the day ahead. Our guide Antonio, jumped out and disappeared into one of the markets while we waiting in the car.
Wonderful Landscapes
Jose Antonio arrived carrying a large bag of coca leaves, gifts for the people we would meet, blessed by Pachamama, the goddess of earth and time. I immediately appreciated his deep connection to the Andean and Quechuan way of life. In Cusco, we had learned how the Spanish conquest tried to erase local beliefs, so it was inspiring to see communities in the high Andes preserving their language and traditions. For the first time, I felt I was witnessing the real, glorious Peru.
After lunch on day one, the views were breathtaking: golden hills stretching to the horizon, alpacas grazing along every hillside. We left the dirt road for narrow grazing trails, ascending toward Ausangate, now veiled in clouds as temperatures dropped. Only then did I realize how warm the day had actually been, a perfect introduction to the majesty and contrasts of the Andes.
Stunning views
We arrived at our campsite and were surprised by a solitary stone structure near a natural hot spring. I wanted to jump in, but the cold air kept me out, so I explored the spring instead and waited for dinner. Upis offered stunning views of the snowcapped Ausangate as the sun set.
Dinner included soup, rice, chicken, and potatoes, accompanied by lively Quechuan radio looping a few cheerful songs. It felt playful and authentic. During dinner, Antonio shared the nearby Quyllur Rit’i festival, celebrating Andean culture with dance, food, and tradition.
Ausanagte Trek Day 2
On this day of the Ausangate Hike we woke up in Upis with a beautiful sunrise. The alpenglow of the Andes is pure magic. For breakfast, we had some bread and a delicious quinoa and apple cinnamon porridge. I also stuck to my daily routine of starting the day with two cups of instant coffee, that I would make so thick it looked like tar on my stirring spoon. Antonio told us about our plan for the day, which would take us up and over our first of four passes on the trek. This one would be Pas Arapa Apacheta, at 16,150 ft. The total distance for day two would be a little more than 10 miles, with 3,000 ft of climbing.
However, the first mile of hiking was a bit boggy, and it wasn’t long before Edith dunked one of her feet into the ice cold glacial water we were trying so hard to avoid. Luckily, her feet dried quickly in the dry air. We took a few pictures at the base of Ausangate before beginning our steep climb to the pass. This is also the moment I really started to appreciate Antonio as a guide. His timing was impeccable. One second he would be there giving us the history and geography background of the landscape, then he’d be off ahead giving us plenty of time to ourselves.
Near to our next goal
Hiking up to Pass Arapa Apacheta was steep but smooth, and we made it up without much of an issue. Having the time to acclimatize in Cusco and on the Salkantay Trek must have really helped, because neither of us were feeling the effect of the thin air above 16,000ft. This was also the closest we had been to the 20,945 ft summit of Ausangate in our 24 hours of adventure. I was really starting to look forward to the next three days, where we would be making a counter clockwise loop around the massif.
We continued on from the pass and before me stood the most beautiful glacial lakes I had ever laid eyes on. They were a deep sapphire blue, surrounded by flickering blades of golden grass, set deep beneath the towering peaks above. It was a humbling experience to be embraced by so much untouched beauty, with only Pachamama to see us. The morning air was taut and calm, leaving the surface of each lake still and reflecting the world around it. Every view you see feels like the most beautiful thing you’ve ever seen, and yet, it continues to be outdone with your very next step. If there is a heaven, it has to look like this.
Motivation is important
The second half of day 2 involved a shorter climb over another pass, which we tackled with energy and enthusiasm. Antonio shared stories of the stunning glacial lakes we would encounter along the way and introduced us to the South American camelid family: llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, and guanacos. Most of the animals in this region are alpacas, while llamas roam lower elevations in the Cusco province, and guanacos are found further south in Argentina.
The most elusive is the vicuña, native to the high Andes along the Ausangate trek. Vicuñas produce the softest and warmest wool, making their scarves worth tens of thousands of dollars. They are reclusive, avoid domestication, and are difficult to spot at their high-altitude habitats. Seeing one is considered a very good omen, so I made it my personal goal on this trek. The anticipation added a sense of excitement and purpose to our journey through the breathtaking Andean landscape.
On our way over the second pass of the day, we saw a few stunning turquoise lakes. Lakes get this color from rock flour. Rock flour is bedrock deposited from a moving and eroding glacier. Once we have crossed over the pass, we made our final descent for the day to our campsite to another gorgeous golden valley. We set up camp and had a nice dinner before falling into a deep sleep from tired legs and satisfied souls and minds.
Ausanagte Trek Day 3
The morning of day three on the Ausangate trek brought the coldest temperatures of our trip. Despite the chill, Edith and I were eager to start, climbing toward Palomani Pass, flanked by glaciers on the southwest side of Ausangate. Day 3 spanned 8 miles with 2,000 feet of ascent to a maximum elevation of 16,800 feet. It was a shorter day, allowing us to savor the breathtaking vistas.
From the campsite, the climb began immediately, revealing our first views of the famed “painted hills,” their vibrant colors dazzling across the landscape. As we neared the pass, snow deepened, and suddenly the sky and ground turned white and gray, silencing the colors we’d admired minutes before. Our horseman led the way, Edith and Antonio’s breath audible behind me. A caracara hawk soared overhead, announcing my arrival at the summit, where I paused, taking in the perfect panorama on both sides.
Lamas & alpacas everywhere
After spending time photographing the pass, Antonio performed a traditional Quechuan ritual, giving thanks to Pachamama for our safe journey. He took three coca leaves from his bag, held them to his chest, and asked us and the porters to do the same. The people of the Andes believe each mountain is a deity, and Antonio spoke their names, blowing over the leaves as a prayer. We followed along, and at the end, he hugged us and sprinkled confetti in a symbolic blessing. Our leaves were placed into a hallowed cairn, sealed with a final prayer, before we continued.
The views from Palomani Pass were breathtaking—painted hills, valleys, snow-capped peaks, living glaciers, and clouds that seemed celestial. The colors were so vivid they overwhelmed the senses. Descending from the pass, we followed alpaca tracks through the valley, surrounded by these gentle creatures grazing, a perfect and serene conclusion to a magical moment.
Great food
After lunch, we began hiking towards our camping spot, and with perfect timing, the clouds began to clear. For this last section of day three, we hiked among the alpaca herds which were more numerous than I could count. The hills sparkled a gold and yellow only found in storybooks with the smells of ice and eternity in the air. After the elegance of Palomani Pass earlier in the day, I was floating on a cloud, drifting in and out of what I thought was real. Sometimes life is just too good to be true. We arrived at our campsite fairly early in the afternoon and relaxed in a beautiful area with perfect views of Ausangate. We knew that day 4 would be our toughest climb of the trek and take us to the highest pass, so we got to bed early and rested up for what we knew lie ahead. Much like the nights before, the afternoon skies filled with steaming bands of cirrus clouds. As the sun disappeared, so did the clouds. In their absence, a cold hung heavy in the air, and the skies were crystal clear.
Ausanagte Trek Day 4 & 5
Day four of the Ausangate Tour started with another sublime morning. The sky was clear, and just starting to fill with wispy clouds. Edith and I made our way to the main tent for a delicious breakfast of crepes and toast with jam. Antonio once again laid out the overview of the day’s hiking, and informed us we would be going over our final high pass, at 16,600ft.
The day would begin much like day 3, with a steep climb, followed by a descent through mountain peaks and alpine glaciers. The climb to the pass was steep, but also short, and after 3.5 miles, we were standing at the top. It was a phenomenal site with cairns placed everywhere like an army of stone soldiers. The wind started to howl in a constant flow of air, like it was forced from a broken main. The cold wind couldn’t dampen our spirits though, we stood there for quite some time enjoying what would be our final high pass.
I walked around to explore a bit, when I noticed a bit of movement about 1000ft above the pass. “Could it be?”, I asked myself. “Have I finally witnessed the storied vicuna?” I pointed them out to Antonio, and he confirmed with excitement, that they were in fact vicuna. The initial section of trail was single track, but quickly turned back into a series of trails, cut from the feet of the alpacas that graze here. I was once again left speechless by the unthinkable beauty of the Willkanuta mountain range of the Andes. Standing in place, I would turn and take in all 360 degrees of its majesty. There are simply no bad views here, and I wanted to remember it all.
Finally on the last part
We took a break halfway into the descent and sat right next to a small lake with grazing alpacas. The trails ran along the sides of the hills here, and I almost started to feel bad for Antonio because of how slowly we were moving. There are moments and places in life that make you fully aware of the delicate and precious nature of our existence. You can never go back in time to change or redo things. On this trek, I wanted to make sure to slow down and open my eyes to truly see where I was, instead of just letting my body move through it. We set up our campsite for the night in the small town of Pacchanta. With only a few miles left on day 4, the trail flowed into a dirt road, and we started to walk by small structures and houses. I felt astonished that people live out here, and at the same time, green with envy. As hard as life at 15,000 ft must be, you can’t ask for a better backdrop to animate the story of your life.
Additionally, on this day we spent the evening walking around the village of Pacchanta, playing with a lively group of puppies who kept begging for food, and standing in amazement at the last four days. The only downside to travel is realizing that you eventually have to go home. This was our final night on the Ausangate trek, and I just wasn’t ready for things to end.
We woke up early and rode back to Cusco in our bus.
You may also be interested in:
- How Long Take the Ausangate Hike?
- What is the Inca Trail?
- What Do I Need to Hike the Inca Trail?
- Best Tours in Cusco
- Hiking Gear for Rent
Ausangate Trek of Peru, The most enigmatic hike in Peru
This remote Ausangate trek is a 43 mile backpacking trip that runs through one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Andes. Starting at 12,000ft and reaching high passes close to 17,000ft, the Ausangate Trek reaches some seriously high elevations. Along the way, you’ll pass by small villages, glacial lakes, towering snow capped peaks, some herds of alpacas as well. The Ausangate Trek is an adventure of a life time, and I’ll be covering all of the details in this guide.
Best Time To Hike Ausangate
The climate in the Andes has a high level of variation based on season and elevation. Generally, the optimal time to hike the Ausangate Trek is July and August, at the peak of the dry season. For instance, I hiked the Ausangate Trek in July and had mostly dry weather with only one short rainstorm. During the day, the high was around 35°F, and by contrast, the nightly lows approached 0°F.
On the other hand, the wet season in the Andes of Peru spans from November to March, when the climate is warmest. However, this period often brings heavy rains, which can make trekking more difficult.
Meanwhile, the sunny and dry season extends from April to October, and it is considered the best time for backpacking and trekking. During these months, you can expect cool days but also very cold nights. In fact, almost every night of my trek reached single digits, so proper cold-weather gear is essential.
Guided vs Independent Trekking:
For this trip to Ausangate, Julia and I went with a guided tour from Vidal Expeditions I’m usually a do-it-yourself kind of backpacker, but wanted to get the most out of this trip without having to pack food, a tent, or other items a self-supported affair would require. I’m really happy we went with Vidal Expeditions because our guide, Antonio, was phenomenal. He taught us a lot about the history of the Andean people and the locals that live in the area. Our chef was from the local village and cooked up regional meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Finally, one porter was assigned to horses that carried all of our gear from campsite to campsite. This allowed us to carry very light daypacks for enjoyable daily hiking experiences. Having had this guided experience, I might go with a self-supported trip next time to save on money and free up a little time. For a first-time visitor, I would recommend a guided tour through Vidal Expeditions.
Guided Pros:
- Knowledgeable guides with information on the region
- Regional meals and snacks
- Most gear is provided and transported from campsite to campsite
- Support of the local economy by giving porters jobs
- Transportation to and from Cusco is provided
Guided Cons:
- On a guided itinerary without much room for autonomy
- Expensive at ~$800 per person
Directions And GPS Tracks:
To start the Ausangate Trek in Tinki, Peru, you’ll need to begin in Cusco. First of all, there are a number of airlines that fly to Cusco. For example, we flew in via American Airlines with a 2-hour layover in Lima. Once in Cusco, you’ll need to take a bus to the city of Tinki. If you are on a guided tour, this bus will be provided. On the other hand, if your tour is not guided, you will need to catch a public bus or charter a ride.
Key Points:
Distance: 42.8 miles Elevation Gain: 9406 ft Minimum Elevation: 12498 ft Maximum Elevation: 16,828 ft Time: 5 days Permits: No Visa: Single entry tourist visa to Peru for US citizens Trail Condition: Wide fired road on the start which narrows to single track and alpaca trails Cell Phone Reception: None
Gear, Food, and Water:
The gear you bring will be decided by your choice of going with a guided tour or not. I’m not going to get too much into gear, food and water for self-supported hikes because if you don’t already know what you should be bringing, you shouldn’t be going without a guide. The only difference in my planning for a self-supported trip of the Ausangate Trek would be to bring one more cold weather layer and a 0-degree sleeping bag. If you plan on going with a guide service, make sure to check what they will be provided before you arrive. With Vidal Expeditions, they provided food, water, tents, sleeping pads, and horse transportation for all of our things from site to site. The only things we needed to bring during the day were our hiking essentials. 
Safety Precautions:
The Ausangate Trek is in a very remote part of Peru, with only small villages and no hospitals. Therefore, make sure to come prepared with the proper gear and, most importantly, proper fitness. In particular, if you’ve never hiked at altitude before, plan to start slow to allow your body to adjust.
Moreover, if this is your only trip in Peru, it is highly recommended to take at least 48 hours to acclimatize in Cusco before beginning the trek. This way, you’ll reduce the risk of altitude sickness and have more energy for the challenging days ahead.
In addition, here are a few other things to consider:
- If you’re not going with a guided group, make sure to leave a detailed itinerary with someone you’re close with.
- Make sure to stay hydrated. When hiking at high elevation in cold weather, you will sweat much less than you are used to. Once you are dehydrated it is often too late. Mixing dehydration with elevation sickness can be a nasty combination
- Familiarize yourself with the early signs of altitude sickness, be proactive in your approach to combating these symptoms.Altitude sickness usually manifests itself with an early headache followed by dizziness and a loss of appetite. Don’t be afraid or too stubborn to stop.
- Be hyper-vigilant of weather. The conditions can change by the hour at high elevation in the Andes. Always have your warm layers and waterproof layers readily accessible. This is especially important when heading up and over the high passes.
- Have a first aid kit, gear repair kit, and blister treatment kit ready to go in your day pack.
- Make sure all water is boiled and properly treated. There are herds of alpaca and vicuna all throughout this region of the Andes. Treat all water as if it’s contaminated.
At the following link you will find the packing list for this incredible hike in the Andes: Ausangate trek packing list
Ausangate Trek Description Day by Day:
| Ausangate Trek | Miles (Elevation Gained) | Campsite |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1: Tinki to Upis | 7.5 (2346 ft) | Upis |
| Day 2: Upis to Pucacocha | 10.25 (2946 ft) | Pucacocha |
| Day 3: Pucacocha to Qampa | 7.3 (2093 ft) | Qampa |
| Day 4: Qampa to Pacchanta | 10.6 (2073 ft) | Pacchanta |
| Day 5: Pacchanta to Tinki | 7 (272 ft) | None (Cusco) |
Ausangate Trek Day 1.
The Ausangate Trek is a 43 mile backpacking trip that runs through one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Andes. Starting at 12,000ft and reaching high passes close to 17,000ft, the Ausangate Trek reaches some seriously high elevations. Along the way, you’ll pass by small villages, glacial lakes, towering snow capped peaks, some herds of alpacas. The Ausangate Trek is an adventure of a life time, and I’ll be covering all of the details in this guide.
Much like our first trek, we met at the Vidal Expeditions office the night before we left to hear of our itinerary. We also met our guide, Antonio. Edith and I would be the only people coming along for this one. We were very excited about that. Antonio and a driver picked us up from our hotel early on day one of our trek to drive us from Cusco to the small village of Tinqui. The drive was about 3 hours long, I kept myself occupied reading Ken Follett’s World Without End while Edith slept. We arrived at a small market and stopped out front.
The town of Tinque looked to have only a few hundred inhabitants, the buildings were of adobe construction with partially paved roads. The people were beautiful, with sun kissed skin weathered like golden raisins, and adorned with bright home woven alpaca garments. We arrived in the morning bustle at about 7 am, when people were buying food and goods for the day ahead. Our guide Antonio, jumped out and disappeared into one of the markets while we waiting in the car.
Wonderful Landscapes
Jose Antonio arrived carrying a large bag of coca leaves, gifts for the people we would meet, blessed by Pachamama, the goddess of earth and time. I immediately appreciated his deep connection to the Andean and Quechuan way of life. In Cusco, we had learned how the Spanish conquest tried to erase local beliefs, so it was inspiring to see communities in the high Andes preserving their language and traditions. For the first time, I felt I was witnessing the real, glorious Peru.
After lunch on day one, the views were breathtaking: golden hills stretching to the horizon, alpacas grazing along every hillside. We left the dirt road for narrow grazing trails, ascending toward Ausangate, now veiled in clouds as temperatures dropped. Only then did I realize how warm the day had actually been, a perfect introduction to the majesty and contrasts of the Andes.
Stunning views
We arrived at our campsite and were surprised by a solitary stone structure near a natural hot spring. I wanted to jump in, but the cold air kept me out, so I explored the spring instead and waited for dinner. Upis offered stunning views of the snowcapped Ausangate as the sun set.
Dinner included soup, rice, chicken, and potatoes, accompanied by lively Quechuan radio looping a few cheerful songs. It felt playful and authentic. During dinner, Antonio shared the nearby Quyllur Rit’i festival, celebrating Andean culture with dance, food, and tradition.
Ausanagte Trek Day 2
On this day of the Ausangate Hike we woke up in Upis with a beautiful sunrise. The alpenglow of the Andes is pure magic. For breakfast, we had some bread and a delicious quinoa and apple cinnamon porridge. I also stuck to my daily routine of starting the day with two cups of instant coffee, that I would make so thick it looked like tar on my stirring spoon. Antonio told us about our plan for the day, which would take us up and over our first of four passes on the trek. This one would be Pas Arapa Apacheta, at 16,150 ft. The total distance for day two would be a little more than 10 miles, with 3,000 ft of climbing.
However, the first mile of hiking was a bit boggy, and it wasn’t long before Edith dunked one of her feet into the ice cold glacial water we were trying so hard to avoid. Luckily, her feet dried quickly in the dry air. We took a few pictures at the base of Ausangate before beginning our steep climb to the pass. This is also the moment I really started to appreciate Antonio as a guide. His timing was impeccable. One second he would be there giving us the history and geography background of the landscape, then he’d be off ahead giving us plenty of time to ourselves.
Near to our next goal
Hiking up to Pass Arapa Apacheta was steep but smooth, and we made it up without much of an issue. Having the time to acclimatize in Cusco and on the Salkantay Trek must have really helped, because neither of us were feeling the effect of the thin air above 16,000ft. This was also the closest we had been to the 20,945 ft summit of Ausangate in our 24 hours of adventure. I was really starting to look forward to the next three days, where we would be making a counter clockwise loop around the massif.
We continued on from the pass and before me stood the most beautiful glacial lakes I had ever laid eyes on. They were a deep sapphire blue, surrounded by flickering blades of golden grass, set deep beneath the towering peaks above. It was a humbling experience to be embraced by so much untouched beauty, with only Pachamama to see us. The morning air was taut and calm, leaving the surface of each lake still and reflecting the world around it. Every view you see feels like the most beautiful thing you’ve ever seen, and yet, it continues to be outdone with your very next step. If there is a heaven, it has to look like this.
Motivation is important
The second half of day 2 involved a shorter climb over another pass, which we tackled with energy and enthusiasm. Antonio shared stories of the stunning glacial lakes we would encounter along the way and introduced us to the South American camelid family: llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, and guanacos. Most of the animals in this region are alpacas, while llamas roam lower elevations in the Cusco province, and guanacos are found further south in Argentina.
The most elusive is the vicuña, native to the high Andes along the Ausangate trek. Vicuñas produce the softest and warmest wool, making their scarves worth tens of thousands of dollars. They are reclusive, avoid domestication, and are difficult to spot at their high-altitude habitats. Seeing one is considered a very good omen, so I made it my personal goal on this trek. The anticipation added a sense of excitement and purpose to our journey through the breathtaking Andean landscape.
On our way over the second pass of the day, we saw a few stunning turquoise lakes. Lakes get this color from rock flour. Rock flour is bedrock deposited from a moving and eroding glacier. Once we have crossed over the pass, we made our final descent for the day to our campsite to another gorgeous golden valley. We set up camp and had a nice dinner before falling into a deep sleep from tired legs and satisfied souls and minds.
Ausanagte Trek Day 3
The morning of day three on the Ausangate trek brought the coldest temperatures of our trip. Despite the chill, Edith and I were eager to start, climbing toward Palomani Pass, flanked by glaciers on the southwest side of Ausangate. Day 3 spanned 8 miles with 2,000 feet of ascent to a maximum elevation of 16,800 feet. It was a shorter day, allowing us to savor the breathtaking vistas.
From the campsite, the climb began immediately, revealing our first views of the famed “painted hills,” their vibrant colors dazzling across the landscape. As we neared the pass, snow deepened, and suddenly the sky and ground turned white and gray, silencing the colors we’d admired minutes before. Our horseman led the way, Edith and Antonio’s breath audible behind me. A caracara hawk soared overhead, announcing my arrival at the summit, where I paused, taking in the perfect panorama on both sides.
Lamas & alpacas everywhere
After spending time photographing the pass, Antonio performed a traditional Quechuan ritual, giving thanks to Pachamama for our safe journey. He took three coca leaves from his bag, held them to his chest, and asked us and the porters to do the same. The people of the Andes believe each mountain is a deity, and Antonio spoke their names, blowing over the leaves as a prayer. We followed along, and at the end, he hugged us and sprinkled confetti in a symbolic blessing. Our leaves were placed into a hallowed cairn, sealed with a final prayer, before we continued.
The views from Palomani Pass were breathtaking—painted hills, valleys, snow-capped peaks, living glaciers, and clouds that seemed celestial. The colors were so vivid they overwhelmed the senses. Descending from the pass, we followed alpaca tracks through the valley, surrounded by these gentle creatures grazing, a perfect and serene conclusion to a magical moment.
Great food
After lunch, we began hiking towards our camping spot, and with perfect timing, the clouds began to clear. For this last section of day three, we hiked among the alpaca herds which were more numerous than I could count. The hills sparkled a gold and yellow only found in storybooks with the smells of ice and eternity in the air. After the elegance of Palomani Pass earlier in the day, I was floating on a cloud, drifting in and out of what I thought was real. Sometimes life is just too good to be true. We arrived at our campsite fairly early in the afternoon and relaxed in a beautiful area with perfect views of Ausangate. We knew that day 4 would be our toughest climb of the trek and take us to the highest pass, so we got to bed early and rested up for what we knew lie ahead. Much like the nights before, the afternoon skies filled with steaming bands of cirrus clouds. As the sun disappeared, so did the clouds. In their absence, a cold hung heavy in the air, and the skies were crystal clear.
Ausanagte Trek Day 4 & 5
Day four of the Ausangate Tour started with another sublime morning. The sky was clear, and just starting to fill with wispy clouds. Edith and I made our way to the main tent for a delicious breakfast of crepes and toast with jam. Antonio once again laid out the overview of the day’s hiking, and informed us we would be going over our final high pass, at 16,600ft.
The day would begin much like day 3, with a steep climb, followed by a descent through mountain peaks and alpine glaciers. The climb to the pass was steep, but also short, and after 3.5 miles, we were standing at the top. It was a phenomenal site with cairns placed everywhere like an army of stone soldiers. The wind started to howl in a constant flow of air, like it was forced from a broken main. The cold wind couldn’t dampen our spirits though, we stood there for quite some time enjoying what would be our final high pass.
I walked around to explore a bit, when I noticed a bit of movement about 1000ft above the pass. “Could it be?”, I asked myself. “Have I finally witnessed the storied vicuna?” I pointed them out to Antonio, and he confirmed with excitement, that they were in fact vicuna. The initial section of trail was single track, but quickly turned back into a series of trails, cut from the feet of the alpacas that graze here. I was once again left speechless by the unthinkable beauty of the Willkanuta mountain range of the Andes. Standing in place, I would turn and take in all 360 degrees of its majesty. There are simply no bad views here, and I wanted to remember it all.
Finally on the last part
We took a break halfway into the descent and sat right next to a small lake with grazing alpacas. The trails ran along the sides of the hills here, and I almost started to feel bad for Antonio because of how slowly we were moving. There are moments and places in life that make you fully aware of the delicate and precious nature of our existence. You can never go back in time to change or redo things. On this trek, I wanted to make sure to slow down and open my eyes to truly see where I was, instead of just letting my body move through it. We set up our campsite for the night in the small town of Pacchanta. With only a few miles left on day 4, the trail flowed into a dirt road, and we started to walk by small structures and houses. I felt astonished that people live out here, and at the same time, green with envy. As hard as life at 15,000 ft must be, you can’t ask for a better backdrop to animate the story of your life.
Additionally, on this day we spent the evening walking around the village of Pacchanta, playing with a lively group of puppies who kept begging for food, and standing in amazement at the last four days. The only downside to travel is realizing that you eventually have to go home. This was our final night on the Ausangate trek, and I just wasn’t ready for things to end.
We woke up early and rode back to Cusco in our bus.
